The Views From Grand Canyon's North Rim Have Survived, But Not Much More

It’s beautiful, and it’s heartbreaking.

Standing in what was once the dining room of the Grand Canyon Lodge, I was looking down into the surreal beauty of the Grand Canyon in one direction and at the total devastation of the historic lodge in the other. I was remembering a special dinner at this very spot, where a towering window once looked out over the canyon.

There were few people around: Some contractors and park personnel working on cleanup, the Aramark staff training at the General Store, and our group of journalists with Joelle Baird, public affairs officer and communications lead for Grand Canyon National Park.

I’ve never seen the North Rim so empty of visitors. That would all change May 15 when the gates screeched open for the first full season after the devastating Dragon-Bravo Fire roared through the village.

Our caravan had driven down Arizona 67 from Jacob Lake across the Kaibab Plateau and into the national park. The landscape along the drive was spring-green and lush, with few signs of last summer’s Dragon Bravo Fire that roared across the North Rim. Even the bison were back in the meadow.

The fire at one point was the largest fire in the country, encompassing more than 145,500 acres. While the wildfire initially was managed for resource benefits, on July 11 winds out of the northwest gusting to 40 mph drove the flames into the rim's lodging area, destroying the historic lodge and dozens of historic log cabins used for visitors. Other facilities used by the National Park Service and concessionaires also were lost.

During the blaze, news reports made it seem as if the entire plateau was engulfed in flames. The 146,000-acre (230-square-mile) fire burned mostly east of Highway 67, south into the canyon and east off the plateau into House Rock Valley. Other than charred trees along a ridgetop about five minutes from the North Rim Village, there was little sign of the blaze.

We pulled into the parking area at the General Store, gas station, campground (opening in June) and a National Park Service information kiosk with limited hours. This is now visitor central for the North Rim. The gas station, although not open on media day last week posted gas prices close to $7 per gallon.

We were cautioned to bring our own drinking water, a message the Park Service is trying to ensure visitors know. There is no potable water at the North Rim. A limited inventory of water is sold in the General Store, but that’s it. There are porta-potties; none of the rim’s restrooms are open.

From this temporary visitor center, we headed to Bright Angel Point, where, backed by red-flag, raging winds, the flames had ripped into the heart of the village last July.

I found it interesting how the fire spread through the village. Hearing that the visitor center and historic Grand Canyon Lodge had been lost to flames, it was easy to assume that the entire area would be blackened ruins.

The fire came through the area in fingers. The North Rim Visitor Center sign, which sat on an island in front of the log building, remained untouched and shaded by healthy, dark-green pine trees. Less than 30 feet behind it, all that remains of the visitor center is the stone foundation and crawl space.

We walked through the area that once housed a saloon, gift shop, and dozens of rim-side visitor cabins. While most of those cabins burned to the ground, about six remain untouched by flames, and some still had their wooden rocking chairs on the porch.

Stepping onto the rubble that was once the Grand Canyon Lodge, I made my way to the area that had been the dining room. Its tall windows are gone, with small portions of the stonework remaining in place, and other pillars collapsed into a heap of rocks. It was an emotional return as I recalled many happy meals with this view. 

Efforts to rebuild the Grand Canyon Lodge won’t reach the design stage until possibly 2027 or later.

The trail to the edge of Bright Angel Point remains closed, as are several others with trailheads on the point. Around the east edge of the area, there are picnic tables and views into Roaring Springs Canyon and down to the Colorado River.

There are still many beautiful views at the North Rim. The roads to Cape Royal, Angel's Window and Point Imperial are open for day use and have picnic areas. Vista Encantada and Roosevelt Point are also open for picnics and day use. 

The Park Service has published a pocket map (https://www.nps.gov/grca/upload/2026-North-Rim-Pocket-Map-508.pdf) showing which trails and vistas are accessible and which are closed to visitors. The map is chock-full of information on how to prepare for a visit to the North Rim.

The double benefit of visiting the North Rim this year is to enjoy both the spectacular views and see firsthand how nature is beginning its recovery from the ravages of wildfire.