Seeing Point Reyes History

Point Reyes National Seashore in California offers a glimpse into the past and you’ll learn the cultural history of the area while visiting historic places and structures.

 

Some 5,000 years before Point Reyes landscape was explored by Francis Drake, one of the first Europeans to arrive there, it was inhabited by the Coast Miwok Indians. These hunter-gatherers built communities of 75 or more people within what are now Marin and southern Sonoma counties. In addition to land-based roots, bulbs, and nuts, the Pacific Ocean provided a bountiful food harvest including fish, bivalves, crabs, and kelp. Grasses including tule and gray willow were used for weaving baskets and mats and for constructing boats and houses (kotcas),

You can visit a recreation of a Coast Miwok village called Kule Loklo (meaning Bear Valley) by a 0.4-mile (0.6 kilometer) walk from the Kule Loklo Trailhead at the north end of the Bear Valley parking.

By the early-to-mid 1800s, Mexican and American settlers populated the coastal grasslands of Point Reyes, building ranches and bringing with them herds of dairy cattle suited for this cool ocean climate. In turn, this created one of the largest dairy empires in the area.

According to Park Staff:

As a region, Point Reyes played an instrumental part in the development of the dairy industry in California. Before 1857, dairy products for consumption in San Francisco were shipped from the East Coast or produced locally by very small dairy operations of questionable quality. Unlike the small dairy operations pre-existing on the peninsula, these Vermont-native lawyer/businessmen saw the opportunity to market large quantities of superior quality butter and some cheese under a Point Reyes brand to San Francisco. The remote location of Point Reyes would be overcome with the expeditious delivery of finished products and livestock to the foot of Market Street by way of small schooners, and eventually by rail and ferry. Vital dairy production equipment and methods were developed at Point Reyes dairies that would be adopted nationwide. Point Reyes dairies were among the first large-scale and high-quality dairies in the state, and at one time the Shafters' butter district was considered to be the largest in the world. Point Reyes dairies produced what was widely considered to be the highest quality butter in the state for the last half of the 1800s. Marin County, dominated by the Shafter family's Point Reyes dairies, led the state's counties in dairy production in volume into the 1890s.

Travel to Marin French Cheese Company 11.6 miles (18.7 kilometers) from the Bear Valley Visitor Center and you’ll be visiting one of the country’s oldest cheese companies, established in 1865 as a result of the dairy industry development around Point Reyes.

While learning the cultural history of Point Reyes, you’ll have the chance to visit historic structures, such as the Point Reyes Lighthouse, built in 1870 and serving as a bright beacon of safety guiding mariners away and around the dangerous Point Reyes Headlands for 105 years prior to being retired from service and later transferred by the Coast Guard to the National Park Service.

Point Reyes Lighthouse seen from the Observation Deck, Point Reyes National Seashore / NPS-Anela Ramos Kopshever
Point Reyes Lighthouse seen from the Observation Deck, Point Reyes National Seashore / NPS-Anela Ramos Kopshever

In addition to the Point Reyes Lighthouse, advances in maritime communications improved seafaring safety and protected lives at sea. In 1914, Guglielmo Marconi sited and commissioned the building of a wireless telegraphy transmitting station west of Bolinas and a receiving station in Marshall on Tomales Bay in 1913–14. Today, the radio equipment, ship-to-shore Morse communications, and teletype—some of it dating to the World War II-era—remains intact, having been restored and made functional, and is used to broadcast on numerous frequencies, including KPH.

The Cypress Tunnel, Point Reyes National Seashore / NPS file
A view of the KPH Maritime Radio Receiving Station beyond the Cypress Tree Tunnel, Point Reyes National Seashore / NPS file

You can visit the KPH Maritime Radio Receiving Station by driving the road through the Cypress Tree Tunnel, a line of Monterey cypress trees planted around 1930 that arch over the route to this receiving station.

If you love horses, there’s the historic Morgan Horse Ranch located within the national seashore’s boundaries. This place served as breeding and training facility for National Park Service patrol horses. Today, there are five year-round resident Morgan horses at the ranch—Honcho, Mira, Knight Hawk, Gentry, and Moon – which are used as the Mounted Enforcement Team within the park and at special events.

Curious as to how the names beaches, trails, and landscapes were given at Point Reyes? You can visit the park’s Place Names page.

To learn more about Point Reyes history in greater detail, click on the cultural history link at the very top of this page.

Point Reyes National Seashore
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