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Climbing The Cliffs, Not Riding The Rapids, At New River Gorge National River

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Climber at New River Gorge National River/NPS, Gary Hartley

Climbing at New River Gorge National River is growing in popularity/NPS, Gary Hartley

Years ago, during the last century, I spent quite a lot of time on the "floor" of New River Gorge, rafting its famous river. Naturally, I also spent a lot of time gazing up at the surrounding mountains with their cliffs. Little did I know that they'd eventually become one of the key climbing destinations in the East.

At the time, the most famous climbing area in West Virginia was Seneca Rocks in the state's eastern panhandle. But things change over time, and once the river became the focus of New River Gorge National River, which was authorized in 1978, attention was attracted to this corner of the aptly nicknamed Mountain State. And those who came often gazed up at the cliffs, and soon brought their climbing gear, not rafts, kayaks, and paddles, with them.

Today, it's said there are more than 1,600 designated climbing routes in the park. 

"The cliffs at New River Gorge are made up of a very hard sandstone, and range from 30 to 120 feet in height," the park staff points out. "The rock is very featured, and an abundance of crack and face routes are available. Most of the routes in the gorge favor the advanced and expert climber. The majority of routes are 5.9 and harder, and most sport routes fall in the 5.10 - 5.12 range."

On December 7, from 5:30 p.m.-7:30 p.m., park staff will be talking climbing at the Canyon Rim Visitor Center. The rangers will provide updates on projects undertaken in 2019, discuss plans for 2020, and answer questions and take comments from attendees.

Area residents, business owners, local officials, organizational representatives, and others interested in climbing are encouraged to provide feedback to the park. Those who are unable to attend the event can provide their comments via email to [email protected], or via email to: New River Gorge National River, Attn: Claire Rozdilski, P.O. Box 246, Glen Jean, WV 25846.

During last year's meeting, some of the topics that came up touched on improved signage, whether there is a need to implement area closures for nesting peregrine falcons, and a crag ambassador program through which climbers could help collect data for the park.

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