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Climbing In North Cascades National Park

North Cascades National Park in Washington State is called the “American Alps” with good reason. These stunning peaks are many and rugged, providing rewarding experiences to climbers willing to accept the physical and mental challenges associated with reaching their summit goal.

Climbing Jack Mountain circa 1963, North Cascades National Park / NPS file

According to park staff:

The numerous peaks and over 300 glaciers present a variety of challenges and rewards: classic mixed mountaineering routes, intricate glacier travel, technical rock climbing and scrambling, all within a premier wilderness setting. Approach routes are often arduous, requiring strenuous cross-country travel, sometimes for days or through thick slide alder, rocky avalanche shoots and scree slopes, icy creeks or rivers, steep snow, or traversing slopes in steep, slippery terrain. The physical and mental challenge can push climbers to their limits, and changes in the weather can foil a summit bid. But when you finally stand on the top of a summit in the North Cascades, looking out over a jagged, glaciated mountain range that finds its finest and highest expression here in the park, as you tower over the alpine meadows and deep valleys, you will understand why these peaks draw climbers and wilderness travelers again and again, and you will begin to plot your next climb in these mountains.

Whether you are a seasoned summiteer or brand-new to the sport, preparing for a climb takes more than a little planning, whether you want to do it all yourself or hire a guide to handle the details and help you hone your mountaineering skills.

You will need a backcountry permit for your climb, regardless of the time of year. You can purchase a permit through recreation.gov. The cost is $10 for adults 16 years and older (free for youth 15 and under). There is also a $6 non-refundable reservation fee (debit or credit cards only – no cash).

According to recreation.gov:

Because demand for backcountry camps and high use climbing areas exceeds capacity during peak periods, an optional Early-Access Lottery is available. This lottery limits the number of users competing simultaneously for high demand areas.

Successful applicants are granted early access to reservations, with the earliest access offering the most options to secure permits. Lottery participants with later access might not have access to their preferred itinerary but can create an alternate trip using available camps.

Successful applicants will be provided a date and time that their individual access timeslot opens. Applicants may create a reservation at any time after their timeslot opens. Participants are limited to a single reservation during the early access period. Each person is allowed one lottery application, duplicates will be cancelled. 

Learn how the lottery works and how to apply.    

Approximately 60 percent of backcountry sites are available for advance reservation for trips during peak season (May 16, 2025 – October 11, 2025). Reservations must be made at least 2 days in advance of the trip start. The remaining 40 percent are issued through a walk-up permit on a first-come, first-served basis at a permit issuing station:

  • Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount, 7280 Ranger Station Road, Marblemount WA 98267
  • Glacier Public Service Center, a U.S. Forest Service ranger station that is jointly staffed by National Park Service wilderness rangers during the summer season, located at 10091 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier, WA 98244
  • Remote-issued permit via ranger

Along with your permit, there are other things to consider when planning a climb. The park’s Planning A Climb page is extremely helpful, and will help you understand:

  • climbing conditions
  • food canister requirements
  • current conditions for the more popular climbing routes (Mount Shuksan, Eldorado, Boston Basin Area, other routes)
  • safety considerations
  • where to find other climbing resources (guidebooks and authorized guide services)
  • how to leave no trace for climbers

Fixed Anchor Moratorium

According to park staff:

After careful consideration, the NPS has established a mandatory moratorium on installing new fixed anchors in an effort to maintain mountaineering routes in the park as historically natural as possible. In keeping with the long history of traditional mountaineering in the North Cascades (largely absent of fixed anchors) this moratorium exercises the authority provided by 36 CFR, Part II, Sec 1.5(c) which will be strictly enforced. However, the NPS intends to engage the public in a planning process to address climbing related issues as time and resources allow. Until that time, this moratorium on the installation of new fixed anchor bolts in all areas within designated wilderness will take effect through the Superintendent's Compendium.

To read more about this as well as sport climbing in Skagit Gorge and climbing in the North Cascades National Park Complex in general, go to the park’s climbing page.

North Cascades National Park

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