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A Day In The Park: Black Canyon Of The Gunnison National Park

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Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park in Colorado is one most people see from the rims, not the floor of the canyon/NPS, Lisa Lynch

A dark and scary place? Some might think that of Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, a place where the sun's rays only reach the bottom of the canyon at midday, and where the cliffs are so steep and intimidating that few climbers seem up to the challenge.

But the views are stupendous and the rawness of the landscape wondrous to those whose comfort zone is the inner city. It helps to bring a vivid imagination with you to the park, as there are places dubbed the Devils Lookout, Pulpit Rock, Dragon Point, Serpent Point, Kneeling Camel View, and Exclamation Point!

Park staff recommend the South Rim Drive, which meanders along the contours for seven miles, passing a dozen overlooks along the way, among them Chasm View, Painted Wall and Sunset View.

The North Rim Road, which is closed during the winter months, is for the more adventurous. Once you've navigated the gravel road from the east end of Crawford State Park that takes you through Grizzly Gulch to the rim you'll have a shorter stretch of unpaved road to explore. Along with six overlooks, this route can lead you to the Deadhorse Trail trailhead at the Kneeling Camel overlook. The trail offers a 5-mile roundtrip judged to be easy to moderate by park staff, but if you're willing and have the skills you can take longer to explore the wilderness with its stands of pinyon pine, Douglas fir, and juniper, along with some outbreaks of gambel oak.

Just be aware there are black bears here, and the occasional mountain lion.

"At any of the many overlooks along the canyon’s rim, there’s a continual thrumming roar that seems to pervade the very air around you," wrote Lee Dalton back in 2012 after visiting the park. "It’s a sound that never ends. If the river’s noise is that loud at the rim, half a mile above the rushing water, what must it be like at the river’s edge? In fact, some of the early explorers who tried to penetrate the canyon, wrote that the noise was frightening, overwhelming and could 'nearly drive one to madness.'”

While you can try to hike to the canyon bottom, it's not for amateurs, the park notes. 

There are no maintained or marked trails into the inner canyon. Routes are difficult to follow, and only individuals in excellent physical condition should attempt these hikes.

Hikers are expected to find their own way and to be prepared for self-rescue. While descending, study the route behind, as this will make it easier on the way up when confronted with a choice of routes and drainages. Not all ravines go all the way to the river, and becoming "cliffed out" is a real possibility.

Poison ivy is nearly impossible to avoid, and can be found growing 5 feet tall along the river. Pets are not allowed in the wilderness. Inner canyon routes are not meant for small children.

Indeed, this is a rugged park, one covering not quite 31,000 acres that challenges the skills and abilities of those who park their rigs and hike off into the landscape. "There is no food service, no lodging, no cell phone service (at least not Verizon) and not much to do except hike short distances and look down into the canyon in awed wonder," noted Mr. Dalton.

Anglers are drawn to the Gunnison River 200 yards downstream of Crystal Dam, which is within Curecanti National Recreation Area that abuts the national park. The waters have been desigated a Gold Medal Water and Wild Trout Water by the state of Colorado thanks to their brown and rainbow trout.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison is an International Dark Sky Park for good reason/Greg Owens via NPS

The park also is being recognized more and more for its dark night skies. The International Dark Sky Association, on honoring Black Canyon of the Gunnison as an International Dark Sky Park, said it has "exceptional opportunities to observe dark skies and has implemented a program of dark sky preservation, education, and opportunities for the public to enjoy the night sky."

Put it all together and you have a wilderness setting, one that amazes and can intimidate. 

Traveler's Choice For: Climbing, fishing, kayaking, backpacking, hiking, photography.

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I like to travel so I will be going there with my family.


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