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Shenandoah's Small-Town Charm

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A welcoming view from Skyline Drive is the Shenandoah Valley just west of the national park / Kurt Repanshek

When you're done hiking in the park or touring Skyline Drive, these Blue Ridge small towns have much to offer visitors.

Shenandoah National Park, located in the heart of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, has a secret: it’s just as beautiful in the fog and mist as it is on sunny days. My family and I experienced this on a rainy Saturday last November as we drove along the park’s famed Skyline Drive, located less than two hours from our home just outside Washington, D.C.

Even though the scenic overlooks were shrouded in clouds, we enjoyed the mystical, foggy landscape, which resembled something out of The Lord of the Rings or Harry Potter. Not wanting to end the trip too soon, we made our way out of the park, and decided to take in a few stops on the Artists of Rappahannock Studio & Gallery Tour.

Held annually on the first weekend of November, the tour showcases local galleries and art spaces throughout Rappahannock County, just east of the park. We began our trip at the Old School House in Washington, Virginia, a quaint and historic village full of inns, cafés, and historic buildings. We viewed a representative sampling of participating artists’ work and picked up a driving map of the various tour stops, including eight galleries and nearly two dozen studios.

In Front Royal, the gazebo is a perfect backdrop for family photos / Allison Morris, Front Royal Visitors Center

With the mountains and blustery sky as a backdrop, our first destination was the Gay Street Gallery, located just a few blocks away. We enjoyed the work of painter Kevin Adams, whose bucolic mountain and farm scenes capture the surrounding landscape and other locales. After stopping for hot chocolate to warm up, we drove a little farther north, then down a country lane to the studio of Phyllis Northup. She specializes in watercolor paintings of Shenandoah and many other national parks.

At every stop it’s a treat to talk to the artists and hear how the nearby national park has informed their work. Then, we headed back home with a new original painting and two prints for the kids’ rooms. 

“It is clear why such a high concentration of artists live and work in this inspiring location,” says Heather Wicke, chairperson of the Art Tour planning committee. “Whether it’s abstract or realistic paintings of the scenery and country life, ceramics made with local clay…or artworks fashioned by traditional methods, the park is reflected as the place that ties together the Rappahannock community of artists.”

Make sure you visit one or more of the picturesque small towns that surround Shenandoah, whether for an art tour, festival, fine-dining experience, or just a country drive. These towns will give you an authentic taste of the Old Dominion. This year’s Rappahannock Studio & Gallery Tour will take place November 5-6, and you may visit www.raac.org for more information.

Elkton

Located just west of the park’s Swift Run Gap entrance, Elkton is the kind of historic town that instantly lowers one’s blood pressure, with quiet charm and a slower pace. If you have some time, stroll the aisles of McGuire’s Country Store, which is chock full of antiques, prints and fabrics, and other country-style decorative items.

History buffs should plan a stop at the Miller- Kite House, a brick Colonial style home that was built in 1827 and used by Confederate General Stonewall Jackson during his famous 1862 Valley Campaign. Terri’s Country Café also offers comfort food staples like meat loaf, fried chicken, and homemade pie.

Civil War history abounds throughout Virginia and around Shenandoah National Park. At Elkton you can tour Gen. Stonewall Jackson’s 1862 headquarters/Allison Morris

Front Royal

The northern gateway to Shenandoah, Front Royal, is one of the larger towns near the park. Park enthusiasts can choose from several hotels and motels and a range of restaurants, from national chains to local establishments such as the Castiglia Italian Eatery.

Those who want a sweet treat can stop at The Apple House in nearby Linden, Virginia, famous for its sugary apple donuts. Local outfitters will set you up for a day of canoeing on the Shenandoah River, and the Royal Oak Bookshop will help you find something to read after a day spent in the park.

Luray

Ever since its discovery in the late 19th century Luray Caverns has delighted visitors, who are drawn to its labyrinth of stalactites, stalagmites, and other geological wonders. The cathedral-like caverns are Luray’s best-known attraction, but certainly not the only one.

Located west of Thornton Gap, Luray boasts galleries, museums, restaurants, and other attractions. Downtown is a National Register Historic District, and Luray is an ideal jumping-off point for a Shenandoah vacation. Make sure you stop by Flotzie’s for some softserve ice cream or a banana split.

Sperryville

Quirky and quaint, the town of Sperryville is nestled in the foothills just east of Thornton Gap. One of its best-known roadside attractions is Cooter’s Place, a store and museum owned by Ben “Cooter” Jones of Dukes of Hazzard fame, where Daisy Duke and “General Lee” paraphernalia abound.

Sperryville has also become a destination for wine and spirits enthusiasts, home to the Copper Fox Distillery and Sharp Rock Vineyards, among others. Art lovers can visit the Middle Street Gallery and Haley Fine Art. A few miles up the road sits the Griffin Tavern, a fine restaurant in Flint Hill, Va., in a converted circa-1880s house.

Washington

Washington, Virginia, has the distinction of being the first of many places named for the country’s first president, George Washington, who surveyed the town in 1749. The town is now famous for the Inn at Little Washington, which has received widespread acclaim for its food and accommodations.

Owned by Chef Patrick O’Connell (no relation to this author, sadly), the restaurant has world-class cuisine at a steep price that is, by all accounts, worth the indulgence. Can’t get a reservation? No problem—Washington boasts several other worthy eateries, such as Tula’s Restaurant.

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