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The Case of the Cigarette Smoking Woman At Petrified Forest National Park


Who haunts the Painted Desert Inn in Petrified Forest National Park? Photo by David Velk.

It’s easy to see why Petrified Forest National Park Ranger Rita Garcia loves the Painted Desert Inn so much. Handcrafted from natural materials, the colorful adobe appears to be as much a part of Arizona’s Painted Desert as the sweeping views of behind it.

Since 1924, motorists traveling Historic Route 66 have stopped here for rest and refreshments before taking a gander at a forest of trees turned to stone. The old inn once had a curio shop, a tap room, and what Ranger Garcia calls “the nation’s first fast-food restaurant.” But that was before the National Park Service renovated the building into a museum in 2006.

Almost 60 years ago, during the evening of April 9, 1953, the Painted Desert Inn caught fire. A park ranger broke down the locked door and crawled on his hands and knees into the smoke-filled building. He found Mrs. Marion Mace, the hotel manger, lying unconscious in her bedroom. The ranger carried the woman outside and laid her on the lawn. Then he returned to save the structure.

After putting out the flames with a fire extinguisher, the ranger returned to his damsel in distress only to learn that his heroic efforts had gone for naught. Mrs. Mace was dead from smoke inhalation.

No one knows for sure what caused the fire, but most people assumed the smoldering blaze had been ignited by a cigarette, for the flames had started in manager’s bedroom, and Mrs. Mace was rarely seen without a death stick between her fingers.

The Painted Desert Inn is on the National Register of Historic Landmarks. A distinction Ranger Garcia is proud to point out. “Only 2,500 buildings are on that list,” she says.

Ranger Garcia worked as a guide at Petrified Forest for over 11 years. She has grown extremely fond of the old inn. It makes no difference to her that it’s haunted.

“Old buildings talk,” Ranger Garcia says. “They shift. They creak. They moan. You hear things.”

The ranger was working on the main level one afternoon when she heard someone coming up the stairs from the tap room below. “It was footsteps on stone,” she says, “but when I looked up to wave at the person coming up the stairs, no one was there.”

Other employees report hearing whispered conversations coming from unoccupied rooms, and some have wondered if Mrs. Marion Mace is still lingering around after closing time.

After locking up one evening, one park ranger looked back through the windows and saw someone inside the museum walking from one room to another. Slightly irritated at the wayward tourist, the ranger unlocked the door and stepped inside. As soon as she entered the doorway, the ranger detected the unmistakable odor of cigarette smoke. Now the ranger was royally peeved. Not only was this tourist in a closed government building; the person had the gall to smoke in a museum! The ranger rushed from room to room in hot pursuit of her cigarette-smoking miscreant, until she realized there was no one in the building but her.

More Questions Than Answers

The phantom smoker loitering around the Painted Desert Inn is not the only unexplained occurrence at Petrified Forest National Park. Behind the ruins of Puerco Pueblo, etched into a boulder, there is an enigmatic spiral. Every summer solstice, as the sun comes up, a shaft of light moves across the top and down the side of the boulder, and at exactly 9:00 a.m. the beam of light hits the center of the small spiral. The purpose of this ancient solar calendar remains unclear.

“The interesting thing about the Puerco Pueblo,” says Ranger Garcia, “is that it has given us more questions than it has answers.”

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I love these stories. Just listened to an NPR compilation of NPS-related stories on CD yesterday and this story fits right in with the rest of them. You should contact NPR and see if there's any interest.

When I worked at the Grand Canyon, my direct supervisor at the time said he had previously worked at Petrified Forest NP entrance station, where he was frequently accompanied by his faithful family pet, a German shepherd. As the story goes, he would not only greet visitors coming into the park, but also perform a subtle "shakedown" of departing visitors, reminding them that it was a federal crime to remove souvenirs from National Park Service sites. He said that many visitors, upon hearing his German shepherd was a "petrified-wood-sniffing dog" would voluntarily give up their souvenirs without delay.

Hi Jon....Glad you liked it. I love these stories too. This is an excerpt from my book Haunted Hikes: Spine Tingling Tales and Trails from North America's National Parks. Ranger Garcia and the folks at Petrified were very helpful while I was researching this story, (I wrote another version for Arizona Highways). Love the "petrified wood sniffing dog" tactic! :)

Andrea Lankford

I was in the Painted Desert Inn this past summer and didn't see any signs of ghosts, but it wouldn't surprise me. The Painted Desert is a very haunting place anyway.

As for the petrified wood curse, it reminds me a bit of the curse that people say they experience when they take Pele's tears from the volcanoes in Hawaii.

Great story Haunted Hiker! Thanks for sharing a ghostly story from the land of petrified deadwood. I liked it! One thing though,...
Motorists weren't traveling Route 66 in 1924. The historic highway wasn't designated as such until 1926.
Look forward to reading more of your upcoming stories. Keep me posted. Thanks!

Dear admin, tourists were traveling the National Trails Highway in 1924, which was the predesessor to Route 66, and before that, it was Beale's Trail.

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