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Wind Cave History

Long before 1881, when brothers Jesse and Todd Bingham discovered what is now called Wind Cave by following a loud whistling noise to its source - a small 8-inch by 10-inch (20.32 cm by 25.4 cm) hole with wind blowing out of it so hard it knocked off Jesse’s hat (so the story goes) - this landscape surrounding that little hole was traveled upon by Sioux tribes as well as Apache and Arapaho peoples.

Early cave tourists posing in the Model Room with tour leader John Stabler (year unknown), Wind Cave National Park / NPS historical archives

Although no documented evidence exists to prove Native Americans explored the cave, it was still known as a revered place. The Lakota call the cave “Oniya Oshoka", where the earth "breathes inside," and relate an elaborate Emergence Story about how the original peoples traveled through Wind Cave’s passages, from the Spirit Lodge out through the cave opening into the new world aboveground, with bison to provide for all their needs, from clothing, to shelter, to tools, to food.

Once that windy hole was discovered by the Binghams, however, it didn’t take long for a series of mining claims to be filed on the land. Eventually, the land (and cave) was purchased by South Dakota Mining Company, who sent Jesse McDonald to manage the property along with his sons, Elmer and Alvin. Ultimately, McDonald took over the rights to the property, selling an interest in the cave to John Stabler, who moved with his family to nearby Hot Springs, South Dakota, to open a hotel.

The cave fascinated Alvin McDonald, who began the first serious exploration of the passageways using a candle to light his way and a trail of twine to keep from getting lost. Alvin kept a detailed diary of his explorations and entered the cave 27 different times, ultimately exploring 8 - 10 miles (13 – 16 km) of passages, some of which they had to enlarge to go further. The McDonalds attempted to make a living from the cave and built wooden ladders and steps to aid tourists curious to see the cave.

Alvin McDonald, explorer and cave tour guide, Wind Cave National Park / NPS historical archives

During this time, the McDonalds and Stablers feuded over who had true possession of the cave. Neither of them did, since neither farmed or mined the property on which the cave was located. The federal government stepped in, and in 1903, Theodore Roosevelt signed legislation establishing Wind Cave National Park in South Dakota, the first national park in the world created to specifically protect a cave and what is now 33,000 acres (13,354.6 hectares) around it.

Tourism continued apace, as did improvements to the park facilities and tour routes within the cave. During the 1930s, the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) established a camp in the national park (CCC Camp NP-1, Wind Cave, Company 2754), constructing buildings, roads, and cave tour paths.

Civilian Conservation Corps camp at Wind Cave National Park / NPS historical archives

Pouring concrete during Wind Cave tour route construction, Wind Cave National Park / NPS historical archives

Since Alvin McDonald’s candle and twine explorations within Wind Cave, other expeditions have advanced further into the inky depths. In 1959, the National Speleological Society organized an expedition lasting 10 days, during which 3 miles of cave were mapped – some of it consisted of remapping existing tour routes in addition to discovery of more rooms and passageways.

When exploration trips into Jewel Cave were restricted, rock climbers and cavers Herb and Jan Conn, along with Dave Schnute, began exploring Wind Cave. In 1963 they made a breakaway from the known portion of the cave. This was the first breakaway in Wind Cave since the days of Alvin McDonald. Herb and Jan kept a diary of their explorations in this national park.

To date, 167 miles of Wind Cave have been explored and mapped, making it the third longest cave in the United States, and the sixth longest cave in the world. Based upon data collected from these expeditions, scientists believe this is just a fraction of the cave’s length.

John Boy's Christmas Loft, one of a series of upper level crawls found by John Scheltens, Andy Flurkey, and Mike Hanson around Christmas time. This area of the cave is heavily decorated with stalactites and stalagmites, Wind Cave National Park / NPS

Wind Cave National Park

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