You are here

Bluffs Lodge and the Best Coffee Shop in a National Park

Share

The mountain laurel is still blooming along the Blue Ridge Parkway, and Kathryn Joines is still serving coffee at the coffee shop at the Bluffs Inn. Photos by David and Kay Scott.

Editor's note: As our lodging experts, David and Kay Scott, continue on their 2010 odyssey across the National Park System, they get to sample some of the best lodging, food, and coffee there is to be had. This dispatch came from the Bluffs Lodge along the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Tuesday we drove the Blue Ridge Parkway from about 50 miles north of Asheville to Doughton Park, site of Bluffs Lodge where we spent the night. Many miles of the parkway were lined with fallen trees and dangling limbs, the result of a December ice storm followed by a substantial snowfall. Several crews were working on the damaged trees.

Most of the flowering shrubs are well past their peak. Mountain laurel is still in bloom, but only a few azaleas and rhododendrons remain. In previous years we traveled earlier in the season when the parkway was surrounded with color.

Traffic on the parkway is light except for a plethora of motorcycles and a lesser number of bicycles. This isn’t unusual since the parkway is a favorite of motorcyclists. We met nearly 70 motorcycles in not much more than 100 miles of driving. Many were traveling alone, probably middle-age men beginning their mid-life crisis.

Midway on the parkway, at mile marker 241, Bluffs Lodge is a small, quiet, and fun place to stay the night. Rooms rent for $85 to $95 per night, with $10 extra charged on holidays and during October. With only 24 rooms, the lodge is small enough to encourage guests to become acquainted with one another.

Gaining new friends here is easy because the majority of guests spend time sitting on the balcony or walkway outside their rooms. Last night after supper we gathered with eight or ten other guests in front of a large outdoor fireplace on the patio that separates the two buildings. We talked about other parks, other lodges, and other travels. In celebrating the 75th anniversary of the parkway, the lodge is providing the ingredients for evening s’mores.

Rooms at Bluffs Lodge are small, simple, clean, and comfortable. Each of the two buildings has eight rooms on the backside and four rooms on the front. Rooms have either a king, a queen, or two full beds. Although the rooms are small, the large walk-in closet will hold more luggage than you will likely be hauling.

The real gem at Bluffs Lodge is the coffee shop that opened in 1949. It is located directly on the parkway, about a quarter-mile from the lodge. The walls are lined with old photos of the parkway and the menu is what you might expect, plus regional items such as country ham, fried chicken, and, for breakfast, buckwheat pancakes. Of special interest is the recommended dish of southern BBQ pork. This consists of BBQ pork with melted cheese between two corncakes. It is recommended that you cover all this with the side dish of coleslaw. Try to sleep this one off.

Our waitress, Kathryn Joines, has worked at the coffee shop for 59 years. That’s right, 59 years. Another waitress who wasn’t working that evening has two years seniority on Katheryn.

There is certainly no lack of employee loyalty at the Bluffs Coffee Shop. General Manager Bill Harrison related a story of a couple who returned to Bluffs Lodge to celebrate their 55th anniversary at the place where they had honeymooned. The desk manager was able to get them into the same room where they had stayed 55 years prior. During dinner at the coffee shop they were served by the same waitress who had brought their dinner 55 years earlier. Folks, you don’t get that kind of experience at a Ritz Carlton.

David and Kay Scott are regular contributors to the Traveler. Their book, The Complete Guide to the National Park Lodges was first published by the Globe Pequot Press in 1997 and is now in its sixth edition.

Featured Article

Comments

sage:
how odd...an article entitled...'the best coffee shop in a national park', and yet, barely a mention about the coffee!
which way is spro hampden, please?!

If you're really worried about how good the coffee is, then it's probably not a "coffee shop" worth going to. ;)

Seriously though - I had relatives who operated a coffee shop for a brief period. I remember they simply used Maxwell House coffee purchased from supermarkets. It was bland, inoffensive, and cheap. That was fine for free refills since it was so cheap and easy to drink. That's basically what kind of coffee I expect from a "coffee shop". However most "coffee shops" use inexpensive food service coffee that's often tied to the coffee equipment supplier.

Now if we start talking about the best espresso bar (they do exist) in the NPS system, I would expect a lot of comments on how appropriate they are in an NPS setting.


I agree with the assessment of the Bluffs Coffee Shop.  While working as a park ranger in this memorable areaof the Blue Ridge Parkway I spent many a lunch break there.

The work records of Kathryn Joines and Ellen Smith are incredible and I would venture pretty high on the list of unbeatable in National Park Concessions.

Unfortunately the Bluffs Coffee Shop will not be reopening this season.  The contract for the concession has expired and the previous proprietors have declined renewing.  The National Park Service is still searching for another entity to step forward and take over this historic visitor service operation.

 Visit [color=black]http://www2.journalnow.com/news/2011/mar/09/popular-parkway-restaurant-l... for more.


We've been going to the Bluff's Coffee shop for years.  It is a favorite of ours.  They have this cherry jam that we always thought was homemade.  It is homemade but not there.  It is so good, especially with their biscuits.  The coffee is wonderful.  I have heard some sad news, though.  I have heard that the Parkway and Bluffs will be closing starting this Spring because of repairs to the Parkway.  Is this true?  This is what we've heard.  I hated to hear that.  Someone email me and let me know the details:  [email protected]     Thanks. Suzanne


Sad that they closed it in late 2010.    They're working to reopen it in 2020 if an operator can be found.    Not so lucky for the lodge which also closed after the 2010 season.  Happily we got to stay there in June, 2010 too.


Add comment

CAPTCHA

This question is for testing whether or not you are a human visitor and to prevent automated spam submissions.

Image CAPTCHA
Enter the characters shown in the image.

The Essential RVing Guide

The Essential RVing Guide to the National Parks

The National Parks RVing Guide, aka the Essential RVing Guide To The National Parks, is the definitive guide for RVers seeking information on campgrounds in the National Park System where they can park their rigs. It's available for free for both iPhones and Android models.

This app is packed with RVing specific details on more than 250 campgrounds in more than 70 parks.

You'll also find stories about RVing in the parks, some tips if you've just recently turned into an RVer, and some planning suggestions. A bonus that wasn't in the previous eBook or PDF versions of this guide are feeds of Traveler content: you'll find our latest stories as well as our most recent podcasts just a click away.

So whether you have an iPhone or an Android, download this app and start exploring the campgrounds in the National Park System where you can park your rig.